Your solar panels are going to sit on your roof for 25 to 30 years. That's longer than most people keep their cars or their jobs. The company installing those panels matters more than the brand name stamped on them.
We've seen homeowners agonize over which panel manufacturer to pick (REC vs. Silfab vs. Q Cells), then barely glance at the installer's credentials before signing. That's backwards. A great installer with a good panel will outperform a shady installer with a premium panel every single time.
Here are the eight questions we think every homeowner in Pennsylvania or Ohio should ask before they commit. We'll be honest about what the right answers look like, and where we fit in.
Important: Individual prices and savings vary greatly. Dollar amounts in this article are illustrative examples and educational context, not promises of what you will pay or save. Only a written proposal after we assess your property reflects your specific project.
Why the Installer Matters More Than the Equipment
Solar panels from the top 10 manufacturers are all pretty close in efficiency and durability. The difference between a 20.5% efficient panel and a 22% efficient panel on a typical Pittsburgh roof? Maybe $4-6/month in production. Not nothing, but not the make-or-break factor people think it is.
What actually separates a good solar experience from a nightmare is the installation itself. Roof penetrations that aren't sealed properly will leak. Wiring that isn't routed correctly creates fire risks. Permit paperwork that isn't filed right delays your interconnection by months. When something goes wrong five years from now, a fly-by-night company won't be around to fix it.
Equipment gets you 80% of the way there. The installer handles the other 20%, and that's where the quality of your experience depends on who you choose.
Question 1: Are You Licensed and Insured in My State?
This sounds obvious. It's not. Pennsylvania requires solar installers to hold a Home Improvement Contractor (HIC) registration through the Attorney General's office. They also need a valid electrical license, either their own or through a licensed subcontractor. Ohio has its own set of requirements through the Ohio Construction Industry Licensing Board.
Ask for the actual license numbers and verify them online. It takes five minutes. You'd be surprised how many companies operating in western PA are registered in another state and haven't bothered with Pennsylvania's requirements.
In PA, you can verify a contractor's HIC registration at the Attorney General's website. If they're not listed, walk away. No matter how good their pitch sounds, don't sign.
Insurance matters too. You want to see both general liability and workers' compensation coverage. If an uninsured worker falls off your roof during installation, guess whose homeowner's insurance gets the claim? Yours.
Question 2: Do You Use Subcontractors or Your Own Crew?
Some solar companies are really just sales organizations. They sell the job, then hand it off to a subcontractor they may or may not have worked with before. That subcontractor might then hire another sub for the electrical work. By the time someone's actually on your roof, there are three layers between you and the person doing the work.
We're biased here (we use our own crews), but there's a real reason we feel strongly about this. When the same company that designs your system also installs it, there's one point of accountability. If something's wrong, you call one number. There's no finger-pointing between the sales company and the install crew.
If a company does use subs, ask how long they've worked together and whether the same crew handles most jobs. A company with a consistent, long-term subcontractor relationship is different from one that grabs whoever's available next Tuesday.
Question 3: What's Included in Your Warranty, and Who Backs It?
Solar warranties are confusing because there are actually several layers. Your panels have a manufacturer's warranty (usually 25 years for product defects and a production guarantee). Your inverter has its own warranty (12-25 years depending on brand). And then there's the workmanship warranty from the installer. This covers the actual installation work, the roof penetrations, the wiring, and the mounting.
The workmanship warranty is the one most people overlook, and it's the one that matters most in the first 10 years. If your roof leaks because of how the panels were mounted, the panel manufacturer isn't going to cover that. That's on the installer.
- Ask how long the workmanship warranty lasts (10 years is standard, 25 years is better)
- Ask what it specifically covers: roof leaks from penetrations, electrical issues, racking failures
- Ask what happens if the company goes out of business (some warranties are backed by third-party insurers)
- Get the warranty terms in writing before you sign, not after
A 25-year panel warranty means nothing if the installer who botched the roof work went out of business three years later. Always prioritize the workmanship warranty.
Question 4: Can I See Recent Installations and Talk to Past Customers?
Testimonials matter, but the best sign of a solid installer is whether they'll connect you directly with past customers. Ask if you can talk to homeowners whose systems have been running for at least a year.
Ask the company for three to five references you can actually call. Not email. Call. You want to hear how the installation day went, whether the timeline matched what was promised, and whether they've had any issues since. Also check Google Reviews, the BBB, and EnergySage if they're listed there.
If you're in the Pittsburgh area, ask if they have any installations near you that you could drive by. A company with 4000+ installs in the region should have no trouble pointing you to a few rooftops in Cranberry Township, Mt. Lebanon, or wherever you live. If they can't, or won't, that's a red flag.
Question 5: What Equipment Do You Use and Why?
You don't need to become a solar panel expert, but you should understand what's going on your roof and why. Some installers use whatever's cheapest that quarter. Others have vetted their equipment and can explain the reasoning.
There are three main components to ask about: panels, inverters, and racking. For panels, look for Tier 1 manufacturers with strong warranties: brands like REC, Silfab, Canadian Solar, and Q Cells are all solid. For inverters, the two main approaches are microinverters (one small inverter per panel, like Enphase) or string inverters with optimizers (like SolarEdge). Each has trade-offs.
- Microinverters: better for shaded or complex roofs, easier to monitor per-panel, typically longer warranties
- String inverters with optimizers: can be more cost-effective for simple, unshaded roofs, single point of failure if the inverter dies
- Racking: should be engineered for your roof type with proper flashing. Ask about their waterproofing approach
The key is that your installer should be able to explain their equipment choices without reading off a spec sheet. If they can't tell you why they chose a specific inverter brand, they probably just bought whatever their distributor had in stock.
Question 6: How Do You Handle Permits, Inspections, and Utility Interconnection?
This is where a lot of homeowners get blindsided. Going solar involves permits from your municipality, an electrical inspection, and an interconnection application with your utility (Duquesne Light in the Pittsburgh area, Penelec in central and northern PA, or FirstEnergy/AEP in Ohio). Some companies handle all of this for you. Others hand you a packet and say good luck.
You want turnkey. Seriously. The permitting and interconnection process is tedious, full of paperwork, and varies by municipality. In some Pittsburgh-area townships, the permit process takes two weeks. In others, it's six to eight weeks. An experienced local installer knows these timelines and has relationships with the inspectors.
Ask specifically: "Will you handle all permits, inspections, and the utility interconnection application?" The answer should be a clear yes with no caveats.
Also ask about the interconnection process with your specific utility. Duquesne Light has been pretty smooth to work with, but each utility has its own application form, review process, and meter swap timeline. Your installer should know the process inside and out for your area.
Question 7: What Happens if Something Goes Wrong After Install?
Your system is up and running. Everything looks great. Then one January morning, you notice your production has dropped to almost nothing. Or you see a warning light on your inverter. Or worse, a roof leak near one of the panel mounts. Now what?
Ask the company what their post-installation support looks like. What's their average response time for service calls? Do they have a local service team, or do they dispatch from out of state? Is there a phone number you can actually call, or just a support ticket system that takes three days to respond?
Local presence makes a massive difference here. A company headquartered in Pittsburgh can have someone at your house in a day or two. A national company routing calls through a Texas call center might take weeks. We've actually gotten calls from homeowners who had other companies install their systems but can't get service. The original installer either left the area or folded entirely.
Question 8: Can You Walk Me Through the Full Timeline?
One of the biggest frustrations we hear from homeowners isn't about cost or equipment. It's about timeline expectations that were never set properly. Their salesperson said "six to eight weeks" and they're sitting at month four wondering what happened.
Here's what a realistic timeline looks like in Pennsylvania for most residential installs:
- 1.Site survey and system design: 1-2 weeks after signing
- 2.Permitting: 2-6 weeks depending on your municipality
- 3.Installation day: typical installs take one day, but outliers based on system size and complexity might take additional time
- 4.Electrical inspection: 1-2 weeks after install
- 5.Utility interconnection and meter swap: 2-4 weeks after inspection passes
Total from contract to flipping the switch? Usually 2-4 months. Sometimes faster if your municipality moves quickly. Sometimes longer if there are permitting backlogs or utility delays. Anyone promising you'll be up and running in three weeks either isn't being straight with you or is skipping steps.
A good installer will give you a realistic timeline upfront and keep you updated at every stage. If they're vague about timing, they're probably vague about a lot of other things too.
Red Flags That Should Make You Walk Away
After six-plus years in this business and thousands of installations, we've heard every horror story. Here are the warning signs that should have you heading for the door.
- High-pressure sales tactics: "This price is only good today" or "We have one slot left this month." Legitimate solar companies don't need to create fake urgency
- No local office or physical address: if their only presence in your state is a salesperson's cell phone, think about who's going to service your system in five years
- Won't provide references: any company with a track record should be happy to connect you with past customers
- Unusually low bids: if one quote is 30% below everyone else, they're cutting corners somewhere: cheap panels, no workmanship warranty, or inexperienced labor
- Pushy about signing before you've gotten other quotes: a good company wants you to compare because they're confident they'll hold up
- Vague or verbal-only warranty promises: if it's not in writing, it doesn't exist
We've had homeowners come to us after signing with another company, asking if we can take over the project because things went sideways. Sometimes we can help. Sometimes the damage is already done: money paid, permits filed under another company's name, panels sitting in a warehouse somewhere. It's a mess you don't want to deal with.
How to Actually Compare Solar Quotes
Most people get two or three quotes and compare the bottom-line price. That's not enough. You need to compare apples to apples, which means looking at the full picture.
- Cost per watt (total price divided by system size in watts). This normalizes different system sizes so you're comparing fairly
- Equipment specs: same-tier panels and inverters, or is one quote using budget components?
- Warranty terms, especially workmanship coverage length and what it includes
- What's included: permits, interconnection, monitoring, post-install support
- Financing path: cash purchase economics or PPA monthly rate. Confirm what's actually being offered (some installers push loan products that may not match your situation)
A $25,000 quote with 25-year workmanship warranty, premium equipment, and full turnkey service is a better deal than a $21,000 quote with budget panels, a 5-year workmanship warranty, and no support after install. Price matters, but it's not the only thing that matters.
Where Lifestyle Solar Fits In
We're not going to pretend we're unbiased. We wrote this article and we obviously think we do this well. But here's where we stand on each of these questions.
We're fully licensed and insured across our utility service areas in Pennsylvania and Ohio. We use our own installation crews based out of our Pittsburgh office at 24 S 18th St. We offer a 25-year workmanship warranty that covers roof penetrations, electrical work, and racking. We handle every permit, inspection, and utility application ourselves, so there's no homework for you.
We've completed thousands of installations across PA and Ohio, and we're happy to connect you with past customers in your area. We use Tier 1 equipment and we can explain exactly why we chose it for your specific roof. And if something goes wrong after install, you're calling a Pittsburgh phone number, (877) 869-1458, and talking to someone who can actually help.
Whether you choose us or not, please ask these eight questions. Your roof and your wallet will thank you for doing the homework upfront.